Hello Steve, We bought your 5 dvd series and have enjoyed the tremendous amount of information.  We do have a question on whether to shoe or not to shoe our mules.  It's seems it's a 50/50 answer.  What are your feelings about this issue?  We live in Tucson and have been riding in sandy and rocky areas.  We have just removed our mules shoes and they seem to be doing great, but would like your opinion. Thanks for sharing all your expertise and helping out new mule riders.  

Hey Mark keep the shoes on, you may not have a problem now but you will pay for it 1 to 5 years down the road. Shoes help with balance and will also keep your heels from contracting, gravel can enter the white line and cause lameness there are 100 other things that can go wrong.

As an Example Mules wear the hoof on the inside of the rear hoof this causes them to walk on the inside of the hoof instead of a balanced hoof flat. Colts should and mules not being used should have their hoofs trimmed every 8 to 10 weeks to keep balanced with a balanced hoof you will have balanced straight legs.   Just like on your truck tires good BALANCED tires helps your truck go down the rode straight.

Kicking Machine

Mr. Edwards,

I recently purchased a 10 year old mule from a sale. He is very friendly as long as you stay in front of him.  If you brush under his belly or try to brush his legs he becomes a kicking machine.  He comes up to me will eat out of my hand, he is not very hard to halter, he was ridden into the sale ring I have not been on him yet.  I have had horses for about 30 years.

Is there hope for this mule?  I would hate for anyone to get hurt myself, my husband or some other buyer at a sale.

Thank-you,
Cheryl Welty

Steve Says: 
Howdy. There is always hope for a mule (equine) in spite of what we humans have done to them. Your mule NATURALY knows how to kick, bite, run off, etc. because this is how they communicate with one another and protect themselves. Your mule is a kicking machine because he was taught to be that way.  I’m sure that the first time the mule kicked it was in a small way. Then as he was abused more he became more volatile. Someone has done him harm so kicking is his way  to say get away. Most likely someone kicked him back. When I was younger I was told kick them back in the belly then they will quit. Well all I got that way a broken toe one time. Force with force will get disrespect and a fight. Yes there is hope!!

Your clinic at DJ- ranch

Hi Steve,

I attended your clinic at Belgrade this past summer.  I am from Cody, Wyoming and brought a taller gray mule.

I have been meaning to contact you to thank you for the clinic.  It was very useful and for me and reinforced many things that I needed to work on to make my mules and myself better.  I have been riding colts and some mules for about 45 years and it seems I learn more each year.  The proper use of the double twisted snaffle, your martingale set up and the importance of using ones hands consistently are a few things that I practice almost daily.  I have had a double twisted snaffle for about 40 years and had never used it due to a lack of understanding about how to use it correctly.  A person can get sloppy with his training and needs a reminder and another’s view point once in a while.

If you should travel in the Cody area, you are welcome to stop here, with or without animals.  If you are interested in a trail ride or pack trip in this country we can do that too.  We have some of the best wilderness areas left in the lower 48 states.

It sounds as if you have a busy schedule.  Congratulations on your success and thank you for making people and their mules get along better.

I hope that you and your family have a wonderful Christmas and that 2008 becomes your best year so far.

Marty Morris

2mranch@tctwest.net

Trouble Handling Hooves

Hi,
 
I hope you don't mind me sending an email.  I am seeking advice.  I recently became the owner of two mules, my first animals in the horse family.  So far things are going well, but we have run into a snag with trimming.  One of the animals I got, Jack, is a 9 year old large gelding.  He is wearing shoes, so his former owners must have been able to shoe him.  When I try to mess with his hooves, however, things don't go very well.  He seems ok with me picking up the first hoof, but as soon as I touch the hoof with either my hand or a hoof pick he kicks forward with his rear hoof.  I don't know what to do about it, but I feel like I am in danger.  I had the farrier out today and he had the same trouble.  He had to leave without taking the shoes off that Jack currently has on.  Jack's hooves need trimming and I don't want him to wear shoes in the snow all winter.
 
So, in a nut-shell, Jack doesn't seem to have issues with me picking up his hoof, but he seems dangerous when I touch his hoof with a tool.  What is my next step in training him?
 
Thank you so much,
Mariann Crooks

Steve Says: 
Well lesson one:  just because you see a shoe or saddle on a mule or someone says that the mule can do something, SHOW ME!!!!!! Do not assume in the equine world.

I have done 18 videos and my first one was “SO You Want to Buy a Mule”. The first statement I make is, “Let the owner demonstrate every thing the mule can do, and then you do it!!!!

Here are some ways the shoes got on this mule:

1. Drugs.
2. Shoeing stocks.
3. Tying up feet.
4. The old cowboy way of taking the mule and throwing the mule on the ground.

Yes you are in danger because who ever have put the shoes on in the past has not been gentle or taught the mule safe way to enjoy being with a human and now has created fear in the mule and now he will fight. Unfortunately some folks only look at the $$$$$$$ sign and not what is best for folks and the equine. And there are lot of folks who feel sorry for the mule (equine), buy the mule to help it and get hurt in the process. Is there hope for the mule yes there are lots of professional ways to help and some times it may mean putting the equine down because they are dangerous.
I have 32 broken bones over the past 35 years I did things the hard way I did not understand softness. Now this is what happens to Mr. Mule. Someone cannot handle the equine, then he goes to the next person or a sale. Each time the mule learns good and bad. This is one reason why I tell folks who want to buy an older mule, “Why buy someone’s problems?” Rarely does someone want to get rid of a good mule. These days there are a lot of  breeders breeding right good mares and good jacks. These folks help the mule industry to go forward.  But unfortunately there are folks still doing thing the hard way.

Our Donkey Bites!

I am a newcomer to the Mules and More magazine and love it every month. We have a new donkey, born last Father's Day. We have spent a lot of time taming her and playing with her. she has started nipping and biting us every time we are near. What is the best way to stop the biting? It's a playful thing with her bit it still hurts.

Thank you,
Ed Jorden

Steve Says: 
Howdy Ed. When you are in the world of donkeys and mules it's necessary to understand their language and it is important they understand us. They do love to play but their play can sure hurt us. They think it's play but we can go to the doctor or hospital.

Timing on you part is going to be the only tough part pf this training; by the count of 15 it is too late. We need rules when we are training. (Now when I say donk or donkey you can use this same training on the mule or the horse.)

1. I do not get mad, I do not get hurt, and the equine doesn't get hurt.
2. The donk does not come into my space. I can go into their space, but they cannot come into mine.
3. I do not approach their head. I aways aproach the shoulder. Approaching the shoulder tells the donk 4 things: whoa (stop), come to me, go away from me, back up.
4. Donks understand comfrotable and uncomfortable.
5. You want to train in steps of three.
6. Think in terms of asking, telling, demainding.

The training is simple. When they nip or bite kick a little dirt at them (asking), tap them on the shin of their leg (telling), use a quirt or whip on their front legs; no other part of their body (demanding). If they respond when you "ask", that is where you stop. If they do not respond to asking, move on to "telling". If they do not respond to telling, move on to "demanding" so that you get the response you want. What you are saying is, "You are in my space. You are not allowed here." Remember to be consistent about keeping them from coming into your space.

Ear Problems

Hi Steve,
Our mule doesn't like to have her ears touched. She lets you touch them while bridling but not after that. She's 15 and we've owned her for about a year and a half.  She's our first mule. The bridle we use is a basic headstall with browband. The bit is a D-ring snaffle. This is the funny thing about her. She will let you handle her ears during bridling and unbridling. After that, she won't let you get close for clipping or even just rubbing her ears. Should we just take a little time each day rubbing up her neck and try to get closer to her ears each day?  Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Louise
 

Steve Says: 

Yes, patience and going slowly will be the best way.  I show the steps to working with a mule that has ear problems in my new video, "How to communicate with you mule".

Crupper vs. Britchen

Hi Steve,
I am currently using a crupper on my mule, I am not sure she has ever had a britchen on.  Does the britchen make a big difference over the crupper?  Could you tell me the plus and minus of them both?
Thanks
Dave

Steve Says:   

Your mule is built very different than a horse. A horse has "A" shaped shoulders that prevent  the saddle from sliding forward, but a mule has "V" shaped shoulders.  The britchen is designed to hold the weight of the saddle and rider or pack load from sliding forward onto or over the mule’s shoulders.  A crupper was never designed for over 6 to 8 pounds of pressure. The crupper was designed for harness to keep the britchen from moving up the hip on the harness.  A crupper has no adjustment.  It always sits in the same place; under the tail against the softest part of the mule where it is the easiest to burn on a very cold or hot day.  On the other hand, a britchen has up to 10" of adjustment up and down the hip.  You will never see a packer use a crupper because it will not keep the dead weight of the load in place!!!  A crupper will allow the saddle to move forward ,back , left and right at least 2 to 2½ inches, while britchen will only allow it to move 1 to  ½  inches forward or backward, to the right and to the left. A britchen will be more comfortable for your mule and give you a much more secure ride.

More on britchen fit in "Sitting on the Neck of My Mule" article by Steve Edwards .

Mule bars?

Dear Steve,
I just purchased my first mule and  I have several questions about saddles and saddle makers.  I have a Circle Y saddle that I have used on my horses for several years.  The guy that I bought the mule off of said that he had a saddle maker that would put "mule bars" on it and it would fit  my mule just fine.  My mule stands about 15.5 hands high and around 1100-1250 pounds.  Now when I put my saddle on the mule now it slides all over the place!  I could not even get on him without pulling the saddle onto his side.  Now would putting these "mule bars" onto this saddle fix this problem or should I fork over the money and buy a new mule saddle?  And if I buy a new saddle what should I look for in it?
If you could answer these questions I would appreciate it
Thank You
Brandan Critchley

Steve Says: 

Good morning the term "mule bars" is way over used!!! Most are semi-quarter horse bars. Just because they use the word "mule" doesn't mean it will really fit a mule.  Most saddle makers have never ridden a mule.  My saddle trees are proven for over 15 years. My saddles are designed for the trail rider the saddle that I use hard every day.  Have a look at my web site and read the article,  "Sitting On The Neck of My Mule" !! Hey let me know how I can help !!

What bit should I use on my mule?
Dave writes...

I have a five year old molly mule, Goldie, that was used extensively for my daughter to learn to ride. She is now showing Walking Horses - very successfully. I am now riding Goldie on trail with friends during the weekends. We live in north central North Carolina - where trails are generally flat - with an occasional creek or ditch to cross. Sounds like a great place to do a mule training clinic? Goldie is extremely well mannered and is usually the lead animal on the trail - she is also the only mule. She has always been ridden with a twisted snaffle bit with rings.  I would like a recommendation to purchase one of your bits to use for riding. Goldie will walk, trot and gallop on command.  When stopping her, she never tries to run away, but she can become somewhat stubborn and it becomes a muscle exercise between my arms and her mouth to stop as soon as I want her to. When I pull back on the reins, her head goes up in the air.  At the end of every ride the corners of her mouth are red - she is a palomino mule. I have very few complaints about the mule - but if possible, I'd like a little more control and avoid this problem.

Steve Says: 

Well pard, no bit is a silver bullet.  The bit is only as good as the rider's hands and knowledge. Just like brakes on a car when they stand on them or keep pressure on them all the time,  her brakes  need repair. When she raises her head  she is not being stubborn; she is trying to protect herself from the pressure of the bit.  The red marks on the corners of her mouth indicate that she isn't understanding and accepting your "whoa".  These red marks or "strawberries"  can happen even when a mule is in training.

I feel that a mule should only be in a snaffle bit during the  first 6 months or so of training. During this time of foundation training the mule should also be training on the next level bit, my #2 bit.  This bit utilizes both  pallet and bar pressure to  develop finer communication. By the time a mule is 3 years old, he should be out of a snaffle an in a# 2 bit.

As you have discovered, a mule does not care about their mouth so as you have found out she is stronger then you she can move all 5 neck muscles and you won't be able to move her. The more you pull on her the more you teach her to brace against you.