Riding out the saddle donkey phenomenon

My favorite old rancher once told me: "It's better to get where you're going on a slow horse than to go to the hospital on a fast horse."

Frankly, I avoid riding anything with ears that short.

In historical photos from our Central Colorado area it is quite common to see images of people riding burros, or donkeys. It's easy to guess that burros were the Toyota pickups of the day when veterinarians and emergency rooms were not so common, and when feed, especially in wintertime, was in short supply. Horses may have been the SUV of that time, and mules of course were something in between. Over time the horse and mule have almost fully supplanted the donkey in Western lore, and today we see few people riding burros, though that seems to be changing.

My interest in donkeys began with my involvement in pack-burro racing, Colorado's only indigenous sport in which competitors race with their equine companions up mountain passes. Riding is not allowed in pack-burro racing, but I can tell you that one does not spend too much time looking at a burro from the ground before he begins to wonder how things look from the animal's back.

One of my first experiences riding a burro was after a long training run with Curtis Imrie back in the early 1980s. We had in fact been out all day and were dead tired. With darkness falling a couple miles out from Curtis' house, he turned to me and said "You ride, don't you?" I hadn't ridden any sort of equine in years, but I climbed aboard Moose and rode him back to Curtis' house bareback and in the dark. The experience left an impression that never faded.

Today I enjoy riding my burros to gain a different perspective on the country that you can get from traveling a little higher off the ground and not having to pay attention to your footing. There's also something soothing and therapeutic about the motion of the animal. In fact, we've used burro-riding to help with neurological development for my son Harrison, who at age 4 has his own saddle.

When I first got into pack-burro racing, one of the first things I realized I needed to buy was a packsaddle. I bought a Colorado Saddlery Burro Packsaddle for $175 in 1981, and it is the same one I've used in countless races over 27 years. I've also used it on a lot of training runs and pack trips on animals of various sizes. All the leather is still original and in good shape, and I don't think a person can go wrong with one of these saddles for basic packing or pack-burro racing.

But finding a saddle for riding burros has been a different story. When I first started riding my donkeys it was purely bareback. Back then I didn't really ride often enough to make buying a saddle worthwhile. Over time, however, I became more interested in my donks as riding animals. This interest has paralleled a growing national interest in what is known as "saddle donkeys" or "saddle donks," and now we are seeing large-breed donkeys bred for this new equine industry. At this month's National Western Stock Show there will be donkey-only riding events. There's also a push for gear made specifically for mules and donkeys.

My first saddle was an old McClellan saddle that I found in the corner of a local saddle shop for $50 and had jury-rigged to make it easier and quicker to saddle up. In many respects, this was one of the best choices I made. It is interesting to note that the McClellan was designed for the narrower build of mid- to late-1800s military horses and mules, and would not fit many of today's horses that have been bred for greater size. But it does come close to fitting modern donkeys. There are numerous ways to adjust its rigging. It is light and can double as a packsaddle. The "centerfire" (one girth) rigging works well on donkeys and keeps the cinch from bunching up on the armpit area. The downside is that a McClellan saddle is hard as a rock and not very comfortable to ride.

I went through a series of other saddles, some of which I bought, rode for a while, and then sold when I found them to be less than ideal. The problem with most of them was that the tree — which is literally the backbone of the saddle — was designed to fit modern horses' backs, while the back of a donkey or mule is shaped quite differently.

These horse saddles included an Australian saddle, which in retrospect was way too big for donkeys with a quarterhorse tree, and also had too much padding between the seat and the animal. But this saddle was easy to sell by consignment at a saddle shop and I actually made money on that deal.

I parlayed that little windfall into a treeless saddle that was comfortable to ride, but it . . . well, it wasn't really a saddle. While there are many people who sing the praises of treeless saddles because of the freedom of movement they may offer the animals, there are just as many people who say these saddles don't offer enough support to disperse the rider's weight over the animal's back and off its spine. That said, I did once ride a donkey over Medano Pass to the Sand Dunes and back in this treeless saddle and we both survived. 

I replaced the treeless with a synthetic Western saddle built for horses. This saddle was light, but the tree was still designed for a horse and I noticed it seemed to put me too far forward on the donkey. One day while riding at a trot on a very slight downhill, my donkey tripped and pitched forward, literally landing on his nose. I was launched forward and landed with my head and shoulder hitting the ground simultaneously (the hard head taking the brunt and saving the shoulder from certain injury). I could feel the animal starting to flip over on top of me so I rolled to get out of the way. He, meanwhile, scrambled to regain balance and bounced back up on his feet. Except for a couple of minor scratches, we both were unhurt. But the saddle had to go.

My most recent saddle has been a Steve Edwards Trail Rider Lite, and this saddle has by far been the best. Steve designed this saddle around mule bars that he also developed. According to Steve's website, he based this mule bar design on the bars used in packsaddles. It's light at just 18 pounds, and it has a horn.

I've had this saddle for a year now and have found my animals seem to move well under it, and it is comfortable for me as well. It doesn't seem to slip in any direction and there is a close contact with the animal.

One problem in saddling burros and mules is that these animals generally have a less pronounced withers than a horse, and thus the saddle tends to slide forward, especially on a downhill.

Pack saddles usually come with a "britchin'" which is the rigging used to keep the saddle from sliding forward. While this type of rigging is the only way to go when packing a heavy load, some pack-burro racers instead use a crupper, which runs under the tail to keep the saddle from sliding forward.

While a crupper allows more freedom of movement in the rear end, and eliminates the chaffing that can be caused by a britchin', some say it can put undue pressure under the tail at a point where a lot of nerve endings come together.

I've run a number of tests using both a crupper and a britchin' and I've decided a britchin' is the only way to go for packing heavy loads, and I also prefer a britchin' on a riding saddle.

However, in pack-burro racing, when the animal must trot for very long distances and the burro is only carrying 33 pounds, it's nearly impossible to get a britchin' rigged exactly right so it doesn't chaff the rear flanks or limit the range of motion. I've gone back to the crupper for training and racing, and have not noticed any ill effects. It is important that the crupper not be adjusted too tightly, and that it be made of good quality leather. The better ones are stuffed with flaxseed.

Recently, 65-year-old Custer County man died when he was reportedly thrown from a mule while riding near his home in the Antelope Valley area southeast of Westcliffe. While it's been labeled a freak accident, this tragic incident is a reminder of the dangerous nature of riding equines whether it be a horse, mule or donkey.

I've been dumped half a dozen times, twice when donkeys have spooked at something. I've never been seriously hurt though I have had my body and ego slightly bruised.

Despite these accidents, I still prefer riding a donkey because they rarely buck and are not as explosive as a horse or mule when they do so. Most importantly, they are generally not inclined to run away for great distances or bolt for home as will a horse. Generally, if spooked, a donkey will run a short distance, then turn back to see what scared it. I've found it's often best to just ride it out until the burro stops.

The resurgence of the donkey as a riding animal is due to its steadiness, dependability, personality, thriftiness, safety, and the improvement in animals and gear. It's been fun to be along for the ride.

Jill I have answered you in bold

>
>Steve, I've been working with my pack mule, Maggie, to teach her to ride. I'm 
>using the mule rider's martingale. She has a naturally low and level head set, 
>which is nice. I'm using direct reining and she is turning well, but we are 
>still working on a light stop and back. It's coming.
>
>My question is about when to switch to the correction bit. I'm assuming it is 
>after she has a nice light stop that is consistent. Is this correct?  THATS CORRECT
Would you 
>start teaching neck reining with the snaffle,ALL FOUNDATION TRAINING MUST BE DONE WITH THE  MULE RIDERS MARTINGALE  or wait until she is in the 
>correction bit? VERY LITTLE TRAINING IS DONE WITH THE FINISH BIT
>
>I have a funny story to tell you. A lot of my riding friends are into these 
>bitless bridles. They claim to have perfect control and their horses love not 
>having metal in their mouths. So I thought, "What can it hurt? I'll try one 
>with Dixie."  Ha!!!!! (Dixie is my big appy mule who weighs about 1300, is 
>16.2 hands, and built like a tank.) She did real well in the round pen, but as 
>soon as she was out, it was straight to the trees and munching non stop, no 
>matter how much yanking and double handed pulling I did. It was just awful! I 
>went straight back to her correction bit!
>
>Another story you would be proud about. Remember my son, David and his mule 
>Buddy, and I (and my mule Dixie) came to your spring trail riding clinic a 
>couple years ago. It was a life changing event for me. I was scared to death 
>most of the time during that weekend, but it truly taught me that Dixie can be 
>fully trusted to safely negotiate just about anything. This past weekend, 
>David and I took our mules on a group trail ride-camping trip in the Dragoon 
>mountains. The trails are very rocky, with some steep parts. One part, in 
>particular, is deemed way too treacherous for horses, and the alternate route 
>is to squeeze through two big boulders to get to a less steep trail. Well, the 
>horses went through the narrow boulder squeeze (riders have to put their feet 
>up on their horse's neck to get through), but when it was our turn, Dixie took 
>one look at the boulders and planted her feet. She knew there was no way her 
>fat belly was going to fit through those rocks. I said, "Well, Dixie, what are 
>we going to do?" She turned and looked straight down the treacherous drop off 
>that horses are never supposed to attempt. I thought, "You are a mule, and if 
>you say you can do it, I have to believe you." So I gave her a slack rein, 
>leaned way back, and held on to the back of my saddle. She hunkered back on 
>her haunches and skittered down that mountain face in perfect balance like she 
>had been doing it all her life! David and Buddy came down just as easily. That 
>gave the next horse riders confidence to try it. One horse freaked out half 
>way down and got stuck. The rider had to dismount and coax the poor horse 
>down. Another horse went down so out of balance that I'm amazed it didn't fall 
>and break its neck. The remaining riders chickened out and went through the 
>boulder squeeze. Once we got to the bottom, one of the horse riders said, "I 
>guess we should name that Mule Hill." I was so proud of our mules. Someone 
>then asked if I had ever gone down something like that before, and I said, "Oh 
>yeah. Have you ever heard of Steve Edwards? This was nothing!"
>Anyway, long story short, that clinic at your place gave me so much trust in 
>Dixie that I know there will never be something we will encounter on an 
>organized ride, or any horse trail for that matter, that we can't handle 
>safely and with confidence. Thank you.
>
>Jill H
>
> hey Jill  sounds like you are building confidence in your self and your mule ! You are doing a great job learning how to train and communicate with your mules. thanks for the update on your success .

Donkeys vs. Mules

Yep Jan,

The martingale will change your way of going with the donks.   Good for you not getting in a hurry!!  Please keep in touch on your progress.  Call any time.

Steve,

Thanks for your reply. I am in Central Florida on the Atlantic
>Coast. My mammoth donkey (one of two) has turned five and I want to get
>him ready for riding. He drives reluctantly, but I think I learned a
>great deal about how to deal with that from the first two DVDs of the set
>where you talk about teaching them to deal with what you ask them to do.  I
also think I need to work a lot on respect issues. Both my mammoths are
very "friendly" and I now see that I definitely have to set and enforce my
space with them.  I also need to order the training martingale/surcingle
that you use to promote proper head carriage and suppleness.   I am not in
such a hurry to ride that I will skip or gloss over providing Amos with a
proper foundation.

  I have looked up your clinic schedule and the closest you get to Florida
  is North Carolina.   Ideally, I would love to do the apprenticeship, but
  it's tough for me to take off the six weeks it would take for me to drive
  out, apprentice and drive back. Meanwhile the best I can do is to try
  your methods on my two mammoths. By the way, I've been to a few "natural
  horsemanship" clinics, but what you have to offer is vastly superior-
  especially for someone who has donkeys.

  Many thanks for your reply and I will keep watching you.

  Best,
  Jan

  Steve Edwards wrote:
  Hey Jan you can do every thing with the Donks I do with the mule.  They
  all react different.  Some faster, some slower.   What state are you in?

Steve,
   I just got your "Communicating with Mules" DVD series. It's a terrific
set. How much of this applies to donkeys?  Is it the same, only requiring more time and patience and a slower pace? Are there any key differences I ought to be aware of?

Many thanks,
Jan

To Shoe or Not to Shoe....that is the question

Hello Steve,

We bought your 5 DVD series and have enjoyed the tremendous amount of information.  We

do have a question on whether to shoe or not to shoe our mules.  It's seems it's a 50/50 answer.  What are your feelings about this issue?  We live in Tucson and have been riding in sandy and rocky areas.  We have just removed our mules shoes and they seem to be doing great, but would like your opinion. Thanks for sharing all your expertise and helping out new mule riders.

Hey Mark,

Keep the shoes on.  You may not have a problem now but you will pay for it 1 to 5 years down the road.  Shoes help with balance and will also keep your heels from contracting, gravel can enter the white line and cause lameness there are 100 other things that can go wrong.

As an example, mules wear the hoof on the inside of the rear hoof this causes them to walk on the inside of the hoof instead of a balanced hoof flat. Colts and mules not being used should have their hoofs trimmed every 8 to 10 weeks to keep balanced.  With a balanced hoof you will have balanced straight legs.  Just like on your truck tiires.  Good BALANCED tires helps your truck go down the road straight.

Kicking Machine

Mr. Edwards,

I recently purchased a 10 year old mule from a sale. He is very friendly as long as you stay in front of him.  If you brush under his belly or try to brush his legs he becomes a kicking machine.  He comes up to me, will eat out of my hand, he is not very hard to halter, he was ridden into the sale ring I have not been on him yet.  I have had horses for about 30 years.

Is there hope for this mule?  I would hate for anyone to get hurt myself, my husband or some other buyer at a sale.

Thank-you,
Cheryl Welty

Steve Says: 
Howdy.

There is always hope for a mule (equine) in spite of what we humans have done to them. Your mule NATURALY knows how to kick, bite, run off, etc. because this is how they communicate with one another and protect themselves. Your mule is a kicking machine because he was taught to be that way.  I’m sure that the first time the mule kicked it was in a small way.  Then as he was abused more he became more volatile. Someone has done him harm so kicking is his way  to say, "Get away."  Most likely someone kicked him back. When I was younger I was told kick them back in the belly then they will quit. Well all I got that way a broken toe one time.   Force with force will get disrespect and a fight. Yes there is hope!!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Your clinic at DJ- ranch

Hi Steve,

I attended your clinic at Belgrade this past summer.  I am from Cody, Wyoming and brought a taller gray mule.

I have been meaning to contact you to thank you for the clinic.  It was very useful and for me and reinforced many things that I needed to work on to make my mules and myself better.  I have been riding colts and some mules for about 45 years and it seems I learn more each year.  The proper use of the double twisted snaffle, your martingale set up and the importance of using ones hands consistently are a few things that I practice almost daily.  I have had a double twisted snaffle for about 40 years and had never used it due to a lack of understanding about how to use it correctly.  A person can get sloppy with his training and needs a reminder and another’s view point once in a while.

If you should travel in the Cody area, you are welcome to stop here, with or without animals.  If you are interested in a trail ride or pack trip in this country we can do that too.  We have some of the best wilderness areas left in the lower 48 states.

It sounds as if you have a busy schedule.  Congratulations on your success and thank you for making people and their mules get along better.

I hope that you and your family have a wonderful Christmas and that 2008 becomes your best year so far.

Marty Morris

2mranch@tctwest.net

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Trouble Handling Hooves

Hi,
 
I hope you don't mind me sending an email.  I am seeking advice.  I recently became the owner of two mules, my first animals in the horse family.  So far things are going well, but we have run into a snag with trimming.  One of the animals I got, Jack, is a 9 year old large gelding.  He is wearing shoes, so his former owners must have been able to shoe him.  When I try to mess with his hooves, however, things don't go very well.  He seems ok with me picking up the first hoof, but as soon as I touch the hoof with either my hand or a hoof pick he kicks forward with his rear hoof.  I don't know what to do about it, but I feel like I am in danger.  I had the farrier out today and he had the same trouble.  He had to leave without taking the shoes off that Jack currently has on.  Jack's hooves need trimming and I don't want him to wear shoes in the snow all winter.
 
So, in a nut-shell, Jack doesn't seem to have issues with me picking up his hoof, but he seems dangerous when I touch his hoof with a tool.  What is my next step in training him?
 
Thank you so much,
Mariann Crooks

Steve Says: 
Well lesson one:  Just because you see a shoe or saddle on a mule or someone says that the mule can do something, SHOW ME!! Do not assume in the equine world.

I have done 18 videos and my first one was “SO You Want to Buy a Mule”. The first statement I make is, “Let the owner demonstrate everything the mule can do, and then you do it!"

Here are some ways the shoes got on this mule:

1. Drugs.
2. Shoeing stocks.
3. Tying up feet.
4. The old cowboy way of taking the mule and throwing the mule on the ground.

Yes, you are in danger because whoever put the shoes on in the past has not been gentle or taught the mule safe way to enjoy being with a human and now has created fear in the mule and now he will fight. Unfortunately some folks only look at the $$ sign and not what is best for folks and the equine. And there are lot of folks who feel sorry for the mule (equine), buy the mule to help it and get hurt in the process. Is there hope for the mule?  Yes, there are lots of professional ways to help and sometimes it may mean putting the equine down because they are dangerous.
I have 32 broken bones over the past 35 years. I did things the hard way.  I did not understand softness. Now this is what happens to Mr. Mule. Someone cannot handle the equine, then he goes to the next person or a sale. Each time the mule learns good and bad. This is one reason why I tell folks who want to buy an older mule, “Why buy someone’s problems?” Rarely does someone want to get rid of a good mule. These days there are a lot of  breeders breeding right good mares and good jacks. These folks help the mule industry to go forward.  But unfortunately there are folks still doing thing the hard way.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Our Donkey Bites!

I am a newcomer to the Mules and More Magazine and love it every month. We have a new donkey, born last Father's Day. We have spent a lot of time taming her and playing with her. She has started nipping and biting us every time we are near. What is the best way to stop the biting? It's a playful thing with her bit it still hurts.

Thank you,
Ed Jorden

Steve Says: 
Howdy Ed,

When you are in the world of donkeys and mules it's necessary to understand their language and it is important they understand us. They do love to play but their play can sure hurt us. They think it's play but we can go to the doctor or hospital.

Timing on you part is going to be the only tough part of this training; by the count of 15 it is too late. We need rules when we are training. (Now when I say donk or donkey you can use this same training on the mule or the horse.)

1. I do not get mad, I do not get hurt, and the equine doesn't get hurt.
2. The donk does not come into my space. I can go into their space, but they cannot come into mine.
3. I do not approach their head. I aways aproach the shoulder. Approaching the shoulder tells the donk 4 things: whoa (stop), come to me, go away from me, back up.
4. Donks understand comfrotable and uncomfortable.
5. You want to train in steps of three.
6. Think in terms of asking, telling, demanding.

The training is simple. When they nip or bite, kick a little dirt at them (asking), tap them on the shin of their leg (telling), use a quirt or whip on their front legs; no other part of their body (demanding). If they respond when you "ask", that is where you stop. If they do not respond to asking, move on to "telling". If they do not respond to telling, move on to "demanding" so that you get the response you want. What you are saying is, "You are in my space. You are not allowed here." Remember to be consistent about keeping them from coming into your space.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ear Problems

Hi Steve,
Our mule doesn't like to have her ears touched. She lets you touch them while bridling but not after that. She's 15 and we've owned her for about a year and a half.  She's our first mule. The bridle we use is a basic headstall with browband. The bit is a D-ring snaffle. This is the funny thing about her. She will let you handle her ears during bridling and unbridling. After that, she won't let you get close for clipping or even just rubbing her ears. Should we just take a little time each day rubbing up her neck and try to get closer to her ears each day?  Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Louise
 

Steve Says: 

Yes, patience and going slowly will be the best way.  I show the steps to working with a mule that has ear problems in my new video, "How to Communicate with your Mule".

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Crupper vs. Britchen

Hi Steve,
I am currently using a crupper on my mule. I am not sure she has ever had a britchen on.  Does the britchen make a big difference over the crupper?  Could you tell me the plus and minus of them both?
Thanks
Dave

Steve Says:   

Your mule is built very different than a horse.  A horse has "A" shaped shoulders that prevent  the saddle from sliding forward, but a mule has "V" shaped shoulders.  The britchen is designed to hold the weight of the saddle and rider or pack load from sliding forward onto or over the mule’s shoulders.  A crupper was never designed for over 6 to 8 pounds of pressure. The crupper was designed for harness to keep the britchen from moving up the hip on the harness.  A crupper has no adjustment.  It always sits in the same place; under the tail against the softest part of the mule where it is the easiest to burn on a very cold or hot day.  On the other hand, a britchen has up to 10" of adjustment up and down the hip.  You will never see a packer use a crupper because it will not keep the dead weight of the load in place.  A crupper will allow the saddle to move forward, back, left, and right at least 2 to 2½ inches, while britchen will only allow it to move 1 to  1½  inches forward or backward, to the right and to the left. A britchen will be more comfortable for your mule and give you a much more secure ride.

More on britchen fit in "Sitting on the Neck of My Mule" article by Steve Edwards

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Mule Bars?

Dear Steve,
I just purchased my first mule and  I have several questions about saddles and saddle makers.  I have a Circle Y saddle that I have used on my horses for several years.  The guy that I bought the mule off of said that he had a saddle maker that would put "mule bars" on it and it would fit  my mule just fine.  My mule stands about 15.5 hands high and around 1100-1250 pounds.  Now when I put my saddle on the mule now it slides all over the place!  I could not even get on him without pulling the saddle onto his side.  Now would putting these "mule bars" onto this saddle fix this problem or should I fork over the money and buy a new mule saddle?  And if I buy a new saddle what should I look for in it?
If you could answer these questions I would appreciate it
Thank You
Brandan Critchley

Steve Says: 

Good morning the term "mule bars" is way over used! Most are semi-quarter horse bars. Just because they use the word "mule" doesn't mean it will really fit a mule.  Most saddle makers have never ridden a mule.  My saddle trees are proven for over 15 years. My saddles are designed for the trail rider. The saddle that I use hard every day.  Have a look at my website and read the article,  "Sitting On The Neck of My Mule" Hey let me know how I can help!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What bit should I use on my mule?
Dave writes...

I have a five year old molly mule, Goldie, that was used extensively for my daughter to learn to ride. She is now showing Walking Horses - very successfully. I am now riding Goldie on trail with friends during the weekends. We live in north central North Carolina - where trails are generally flat - with an occasional creek or ditch to cross. Sounds like a great place to do a mule training clinic? Goldie is extremely well mannered and is usually the lead animal on the trail - she is also the only mule. She has always been ridden with a twisted snaffle bit with rings.  I would like a recommendation to purchase one of your bits to use for riding. Goldie will walk, trot and gallop on command.  When stopping her, she never tries to run away, but she can become somewhat stubborn and it becomes a muscle exercise between my arms and her mouth to stop as soon as I want her to. When I pull back on the reins, her head goes up in the air.  At the end of every ride the corners of her mouth are red - she is a palomino mule. I have very few complaints about the mule - but if possible, I'd like a little more control and avoid this problem.

Steve Says: 

Well pard, no bit is a silver bullet.  The bit is only as good as the rider's hands and knowledge. Just like brakes on a car when they stand on them or keep pressure on them all the time,  her brakes need repair. When she raises her head she is not being stubborn; she is trying to protect herself from the pressure of the bit.  The red marks on the corners of her mouth indicate that she isn't understanding and accepting your "whoa".  These red marks or "strawberries"  can happen even when a mule is in training.

I feel that a mule should only be in a snaffle bit during the first 6 months or so of training. During this time of foundation training the mule should also be training on the next level bit, my #2 bit.  This bit utilizes both pallet and bar pressure to develop finer communication. By the time a mule is 3 years old, he should be out of a snaffle an in a# 2 bit.

As you have discovered, a mule does not care about their mouth so as you have found out she is stronger then you she can move all 5 neck muscles and you won't be able to move her. The more you pull on her the more you teach her to brace against you.